FASHION & BEAUTY: LONDON MEN’S COLLECTIONS
London kick starts the menswear calendar with a biannual showcase of British brands and businesses embedded in a cultural program. London Collections: Men emphasizes both the creative and commercial importance of Britain’s brands and emerging talent as well as the rich cultural landscape that contributes to the inspiration and success of this sector. All events on the schedule are designed to showcase the breadth of British fashion talent, from the world’s most innovative emerging talents to global menswear brands and Savile Row tailors. Below are runway looks from four designers who caught our eye this season – showing both Autumn/Winter 2013 and Spring/Summer 2014 collections.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN – Autumn / Winter 2013
Alexander McQueen was founded in 1992 by Lee McQueen where in less than 10 years he became one of the most respected fashion designers in the world.
Alexander McQueen shows are known for their emotional power and raw energy, as well as the romantic but determinedly contemporary nature of the collections. Integral to the McQueen culture is the juxtaposition between contrasting elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity and severity. An openly emotional and even passionate viewpoint is realized with a profound respect and influence for the arts and crafts tradition. McQueen’s collections combine an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, fine workmanship and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing.
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HACKETT LONDON – Spring / Summer 2014
Hackett London, the luxury British menswear and children’s wear brand, opened its first store on the New King’s Road in London selling vintage gentlemen’s clothes and accessories.
It soon became apparent that market demand would always exceed supply and Jeremy Hackett and Ashley Lloyd-Jennings decided to manufacture from new, to complement the second-hand offering. Starting from scratch but working with traditional manufacturers, they were able to create their ideal range of clothing and accessories for town and country based on their extensive knowledge of British men’s style.
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YMC – YOU MUST CREATE – Autumn / Winter 2013
Self-taught Fraser Moser hails from Wales. He founded YMC with Jimmy Collins in 1995. YMC’s signature is “creating understated classic clothing with a twist.” Moser’s ideal client is a “discerning” gentleman, and he describes the collection as being “A softer less aggressive collection to the winter one, with a modern nod to colonial Britain. Naïve, childlike prints are used on easy, sporty, minimal shapes creating a fresh wearable summer wardrobe.”
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CASELY-HAYFORD – Spring / Summer 2014
Both Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford studied at the Central Saint Martins. Joe was the Creative Director of Gieves & Hawkes before launching Casely-Hayford, while Charlie apprenticed under Joe after leaving school. The first piece of menswear the duo ever designed was “A jacket and trousers made from recycled World War II tents.”
They describe their signature pieces are “Sportswear fused with tailoring and the theme for their current collection is “Skate and space.”
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Photo Credit: British Fashion Council